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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
This mainly a get to know type game. Outright slaughter will probably guarantee a win though. Units can panic and run if they get bad enough. The main thing is for one side or the other to get and keep the hill.
As to other questions ; Artillery - first thing you use in your move before offensive fire and movement. Always available as specified but must be successfully called in each turn. Smoke can be used instead - twice per artillery or mortar unit per game. Smoke persists for two turns. Mortar units fire at the same time. Mortars can also direct fire if they can see their target. To the German players - some of your units are not visible because of where they are. If you are still unsure I can PM you. So all we need now are the initial British positions and projected movement for the first three turns (basic orders) and we are away. If anyone has specific artillery targets just PM me and let me know. |
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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
Quote:
You will also get a pic of the opposition you can see, along with markers showing suppressions and disorders. Disorder markers on your own troops are the ones you don't want to see. |
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Thanks MAGNA
So this is a "blind" set up I take it, both sides setup without knowing any of the other sides positions. Arty per turn, How can we pre-determine this for three turns, so to speak? Each sighted barrage may shift depending on enemy movements and what our units may run up against at the time..... Is there a Turn limit here? Say the Germans or British have to hve the sand hill by x number of turns? Now from what I know, WR and I can start planning a bit more after these last couple questions for now, we have a good start though. Cheers, thanks for the reply. Tom and WR |
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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
Quote:
The idea is that you give your general orders for each major unit (rather than section by section) and we go from there. Your orders for the first three moves are only a guide (eg unit A to probe to the right. Artillery to fire on any infantry or soft target spotted). This way we avoid drawn out order requirements. The first three moves worth of orders can and probably will change for both sides as movement occurs and units are exposed (they died without their pants on Sir?). The main thing is for everyone involved not to stress too much on the nitty gritty but rather act as a battalion commander and leave some of the decisions to your little plastic captains. Remember, any flashes of brilliance or particular unit orders which are important are also encouraged. Bribery is also quite permissable (unmarked notes only please - and no - Madagascan currency will not do). cheers |
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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
Just one more thing. The British units do not have to all be on the board on move one.
They can be fed onto the board during the movement phase. The Germans do not have this luxury. I would expect the game to be decided after 6 moves but we will make it eight to allow for umpire cock ups. After this time I will evaluate control and unit status for each side so we can see who wins. |
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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
OK, this is starting to make a little more sense to me now. So that I have an idea on scale, roughly how long inches wise is ti ftom the Allied toeline (the line beyond which we're not to set up deployment) and the ridge?
6 turns you say...ummmm.....ATTACK!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Re: Miniatures - You play - I do the work
It's about 37 by 48 inches. As I said before though, it doesn't really matter if you win or not (at least in this game anyway).
Also could everyone please use the map as it is in the pdf picture. The left side or flank is the side with the wadi. Thay way any reference to left or right flank is the same for both sides and there can be no confusion (can there?). Hagen - Perhaps you could swap your case of currency for Matabele Gumbo beans - I hear they are edible...... |
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