Group Build 8 week! 25 yr old kit! $$PRIZE

[McCoy]

But you'll still need all of our possible good luck charms etc... Horses has to be the hardest thing for a modeller to get right.

[Geek44]

I guess it's the same as with human figures. Many look more like store mannequins than the dynamic humans they represent.

[MAGNA]

Yes mine usually do. I will spend a bit of time with these and maybe use my tube oil paints. They seem to be good for larger figures (1/35th).

[Whiterook]

Lookin' good RB...coming along nicely!

[Geek44]

Originally Posted by MAGNA

Yes mine usually do. I will spend a bit of time with these and maybe use my tube oil paints. They seem to be good for larger figures (1/35th).

I'm talking about their poses. I've never tried using odd arms, heads and legs but I know many do. It's even possible to alter poses with plenty of cuting, filling and sanding but I've never tried it. I HAVE tried using artists oils on a practice figure. I need practice.

[MAGNA]

Here is a pic of my test figure. I tried the green oil ages ago over a white undercoat. While it stayed wet for days it was good as I found I could keep pushing the paint over to take more off the areas i wanted lighter and 'push' it into the edges and creases.

I think I will try this again with the horses.

A lot of the gaits modelled for horses are done for reasons of balance too. They just wouldn't stand up if you used certain ones because only one hoof would be on the ground.

[Geek44]

He looks pretty good MAGNA. I used an old Tamiya figure. I painted base colours with humbrol first, then used the oils. I found that I had a lot of paint build up, especially in eye sockets and places like that. I also had issues with brush marks. Sure oil paint takes ages to dry, but that makes them a bit more forgiving I think. I don't know how much you know about oils, but if you thin them with turpentine, the end result is more matt. If you want a satin/gloss finish, you can dilute them with linseed oil. Available in art shops. It's a bit more refined than the stuff you oiled your Gray-Nicholls with. Horses can be a mixture of satin and matt I think.
The other beauty of long drying time is that you can blend colours on the surface. I like this quality.

[MAGNA]

Thanks. I can try some of those ideas. I will need a satin to satin/gloss finish for parts of the coat and dull to matt for the mane and tail if they are going to look right.

It certainly is all to do with thinning and what you use. Whiterook may be able to help here too. I know the binders affect the product too.

[lufttiger]

Scratch building figs i used to do all the time, now i only do it very little. I
would basically use diff arms, heads and sometimes torso. Its not too hard
but does require putty to fill in those gaps.

For painting i used to go all out with oils on the face, but this is very hard &
time consuming. I'm now doing two figs for that RSO, all in Acrylics. No oils
or enamals. I will post pics here for if you guys would like?

[Geek44]

Please do LT...we're all learning I think. Figure painting isn't easy to do well and any info is welcome as far as I'm concerned.
Peace.