Help
), I start this thread as a kind of 'How I Did It' guide to my Panzer IV. To be sure, this isn't the only way of doing things...indeed there are always multiple ways of achieving similar results. These can depend on taste, preference, finances...all kinds of reasons. As usual, everybody is welcome to ask, tell, add or just comment here. I hope to get pretty detailed in my explanations so this might take me a few days to get to 'finished'. The kit in question has a certain amount of interior detail but for this thread, I'll concentrate only on the outside of the tank. It's all the same anyway. I'll also spread myself over multiple posts for ease of 'digestion'. So...here we go!
How I Weather
Rate Topic:
#1
Geek44 
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 02, 2008 - 07:28 AM
In response to a PM from a member hoping to improve his weathering skills (), I start this thread as a kind of 'How I Did It' guide to my Panzer IV. To be sure, this isn't the only way of doing things...indeed there are always multiple ways of achieving similar results. These can depend on taste, preference, finances...all kinds of reasons. As usual, everybody is welcome to ask, tell, add or just comment here. I hope to get pretty detailed in my explanations so this might take me a few days to get to 'finished'. The kit in question has a certain amount of interior detail but for this thread, I'll concentrate only on the outside of the tank. It's all the same anyway. I'll also spread myself over multiple posts for ease of 'digestion'. So...here we go!
), I start this thread as a kind of 'How I Did It' guide to my Panzer IV. To be sure, this isn't the only way of doing things...indeed there are always multiple ways of achieving similar results. These can depend on taste, preference, finances...all kinds of reasons. As usual, everybody is welcome to ask, tell, add or just comment here. I hope to get pretty detailed in my explanations so this might take me a few days to get to 'finished'. The kit in question has a certain amount of interior detail but for this thread, I'll concentrate only on the outside of the tank. It's all the same anyway. I'll also spread myself over multiple posts for ease of 'digestion'. So...here we go!
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
Promote to Article
#2
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 02, 2008 - 07:40 AM
From the start, I planned this as a DAK vehicle. It helps a lot to know what conditions were like where your model served. It also helps to know how your subject worked, what it was capable of and how it was painted and finished in real life. These vehicles (I believe) arrived in Africa still painted Panzer Grey and were painted Dunkelgelb (Dark Yellow) in the field...I'm sure somebody will correct me on that... .
So that's exactly what I did. I painted the whoe shebang with Tamiya's 'Dark Grey' which is acrylic paint...an important detail. Acrylic paint won't be damaged or disturbed by turpentine or thinners used for oil or enamel paints. I applied this coat with an airbrush...not a neccessity, but it helps create a smoother, even finish. For me, if the real thing was sprayed, I spray...if the real thing was brushed, I brush...easy.
Sadly, I don't have a pic of this and I had two pics with 'Upload Errors' here...bear with me please.
Peace.
.So that's exactly what I did. I painted the whoe shebang with Tamiya's 'Dark Grey' which is acrylic paint...an important detail. Acrylic paint won't be damaged or disturbed by turpentine or thinners used for oil or enamel paints. I applied this coat with an airbrush...not a neccessity, but it helps create a smoother, even finish. For me, if the real thing was sprayed, I spray...if the real thing was brushed, I brush...easy.
Sadly, I don't have a pic of this and I had two pics with 'Upload Errors' here...bear with me please.
Peace.
Attached File(s)
-
Third One.jpg (56.68K)
Number of downloads: 200
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#3
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 04:40 AM
In the pic below, you can see the 'pristine' base coat and the vehicle from the front. Of note here is the DAK palm decal which is a grey rectangle with the palm in the centre. On the real vehicle, the palm was stencilled on in white and then masked for the spraying of the dark yellow which left the grey showing around the palm. On the model, the decal is a grey rectangle with the white palm...the grey colour of the decal is the grey I will have to use to simulate chipped yellow paint later.
Base Colour Front.jpg (40.79K)
Number of downloads: 189
In this pic (below), you can see that I've begun to simulate some chipping of the turret numbers by painting small 'bites' out of the edges and inside the numbers with thinned Tamiya Dark Yellow...I used a 000 brush for this.
All decals on this model were applied onto gloss acrylic areas I sprayed only where decals would be. After they had been applied, I sprayed gloss clear over them too...it imparts a 'painted on' look and that's what we're trying to suggest.
Decals.jpg (53.4K)
Number of downloads: 189
Base Colour Front.jpg (40.79K)
Number of downloads: 189
In this pic (below), you can see that I've begun to simulate some chipping of the turret numbers by painting small 'bites' out of the edges and inside the numbers with thinned Tamiya Dark Yellow...I used a 000 brush for this.
All decals on this model were applied onto gloss acrylic areas I sprayed only where decals would be. After they had been applied, I sprayed gloss clear over them too...it imparts a 'painted on' look and that's what we're trying to suggest.
Decals.jpg (53.4K)
Number of downloads: 189
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#4
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 04:56 AM
By now, we have a patchy vehicle with matt bits, gloss bits and everything in between from the decal application. Never fear...subsequent procedures will bring it all together.
The next stage was the 'filters'. Filters are a new term for an old technique and these are made possible by the fact that the acrylic base coat is impervious to turpentine and thinner. I usually use the lid of a soda bottle blu tacked to my desk for stability. With an eye dropper, I fill this almost to the top with ordinary turpentine that I buy at the supermarket. Then I add a single drop of enamel paint. I use Humbrol. The colour you choose here isn't really very important. I've seen blue, orange...almost any colour used for this. Personally, I stick to 'dirt' colours that are close to and usually a bit darker than the base. Lighter colours work too, but you need to apply more coats. When the filter is mixed...it's like a very weak wash, coat the whole model with a wide brush...try to touch each part only once or twice but it's not critical...each coat is very, very subtle. The idea is to subtly vary the base colour so that it doesn't look so 'monotone' (monotonous...mono = one, tone = colour...ie. boring). Leave each coat to dry for at least two hours. Here, you see areas where the filter has been applied shining wet (damp really) and matt where I haven't been yet. (below)
Filters.jpg (38.66K)
Number of downloads: 188
For the engine covers and muzzle, I wanted to suggest discolouration of the paint due to heat. I added more filters to these areas to achieve it...dark brown as I recall. In the pic below, I've done the engine covers with a coat and it's still wet.
Filters 1.jpg (51.45K)
Number of downloads: 189
In the next pic, it has dried and you can see the variation in 'shade' on the covers compared to the rest.
Filters 2.jpg (48.85K)
Number of downloads: 189
These filters are very subtle and it takes a few coats to begin to see the results but they're worth the time. When to stop applying these is really a matter of personal taste. Some parts of this model have around five coats...some (engine covers for example) have around twenty...that's about forty hours considering drying time. I say again...worth the effort.
To clarify, the whole model has several coats of filters but my camera is only able to show the more obvious variation in tone on the covers.
The next stage was the 'filters'. Filters are a new term for an old technique and these are made possible by the fact that the acrylic base coat is impervious to turpentine and thinner. I usually use the lid of a soda bottle blu tacked to my desk for stability. With an eye dropper, I fill this almost to the top with ordinary turpentine that I buy at the supermarket. Then I add a single drop of enamel paint. I use Humbrol. The colour you choose here isn't really very important. I've seen blue, orange...almost any colour used for this. Personally, I stick to 'dirt' colours that are close to and usually a bit darker than the base. Lighter colours work too, but you need to apply more coats. When the filter is mixed...it's like a very weak wash, coat the whole model with a wide brush...try to touch each part only once or twice but it's not critical...each coat is very, very subtle. The idea is to subtly vary the base colour so that it doesn't look so 'monotone' (monotonous...mono = one, tone = colour...ie. boring). Leave each coat to dry for at least two hours. Here, you see areas where the filter has been applied shining wet (damp really) and matt where I haven't been yet. (below)
Filters.jpg (38.66K)
Number of downloads: 188
For the engine covers and muzzle, I wanted to suggest discolouration of the paint due to heat. I added more filters to these areas to achieve it...dark brown as I recall. In the pic below, I've done the engine covers with a coat and it's still wet.
Filters 1.jpg (51.45K)
Number of downloads: 189
In the next pic, it has dried and you can see the variation in 'shade' on the covers compared to the rest.
Filters 2.jpg (48.85K)
Number of downloads: 189
These filters are very subtle and it takes a few coats to begin to see the results but they're worth the time. When to stop applying these is really a matter of personal taste. Some parts of this model have around five coats...some (engine covers for example) have around twenty...that's about forty hours considering drying time. I say again...worth the effort.
To clarify, the whole model has several coats of filters but my camera is only able to show the more obvious variation in tone on the covers.
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#6
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:15 AM
The next step is about the only step that I think requires some experience and/or 'skill' because paint chips are hard to get looking 'random' but at the same time 'logical'. One needs to think about where and why paint will be damaged and knowing how the vehicle worked, crew habits...anything that might help. Obvious areas would be where the crew mounts and dismounts...where they load ammo, the edges of access panels and hatches and where routine maintenance takes place. Imagine tools being dropped, boots, boxes...it's not so hard if you think about it a bit.
I diluted some 'Dark Grey' by Tamiya (acrylic again) and using the finest brush I have (000), I mentally broke the model up into manageable bites and slowly applied my chips. What's reall happening is that I'm painting the colour that lies under the dark yellow on top of it. The eye isn't really fooled by that so there are things we can do...more about that later.
In the pic below, I'm in the process...note the fenders are still in tact.
Chipped 1.jpg (60.97K)
Number of downloads: 186
Note that I concentrate on the edges of things...there are still chips elsewhere, but edges are more 'exposed' to bumps and bruises. Below, the turret roof. Note that I've painted 'scratches' as though something had dragged across the surface. I found that these really, really made the effect work well.
Chp 2.jpg (42.78K)
Number of downloads: 190
Below...the wheels.
Wheels.jpg (61.08K)
Number of downloads: 184
Note the damaged tyres and the one that's actually missing some rubber. This vehicle has been around and seen some action. There's some damage to the turret bin too. The only thing I would do differently next time would be to bend the fenders too.
Don't forget to carry every technique you try to all parts of the model. You'll notice that I have missing tools and stowage on the finished model. Here, I used the PE clamps included with the kit. Where the tools are present, I used the tools with the clamps moulded on. All of the weathering I did to the tank was also done on the tiny, moulded-on clamps, wheels, fire extinguisher...everything...we're aiming for 'unity'. Clean tools on a mucky tank look silly.
Lastly, you can apply a very fine line of lightened yellow (getting towards white) to the edges of some of the larger chips. It gives the chip a '3D' look and helps to push the grey 'under' the yellow (remember, it's actually on top of it).
I diluted some 'Dark Grey' by Tamiya (acrylic again) and using the finest brush I have (000), I mentally broke the model up into manageable bites and slowly applied my chips. What's reall happening is that I'm painting the colour that lies under the dark yellow on top of it. The eye isn't really fooled by that so there are things we can do...more about that later.
In the pic below, I'm in the process...note the fenders are still in tact.
Chipped 1.jpg (60.97K)
Number of downloads: 186
Note that I concentrate on the edges of things...there are still chips elsewhere, but edges are more 'exposed' to bumps and bruises. Below, the turret roof. Note that I've painted 'scratches' as though something had dragged across the surface. I found that these really, really made the effect work well.
Chp 2.jpg (42.78K)
Number of downloads: 190
Below...the wheels.
Wheels.jpg (61.08K)
Number of downloads: 184
Note the damaged tyres and the one that's actually missing some rubber. This vehicle has been around and seen some action. There's some damage to the turret bin too. The only thing I would do differently next time would be to bend the fenders too.
Don't forget to carry every technique you try to all parts of the model. You'll notice that I have missing tools and stowage on the finished model. Here, I used the PE clamps included with the kit. Where the tools are present, I used the tools with the clamps moulded on. All of the weathering I did to the tank was also done on the tiny, moulded-on clamps, wheels, fire extinguisher...everything...we're aiming for 'unity'. Clean tools on a mucky tank look silly.
Lastly, you can apply a very fine line of lightened yellow (getting towards white) to the edges of some of the larger chips. It gives the chip a '3D' look and helps to push the grey 'under' the yellow (remember, it's actually on top of it).
This post has been edited by Geek44: October 03, 2008 - 05:41 AM
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#7
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:26 AM
The best way to apply your chips is to do a small amount evenly...perhaps on the glacis only. Step back from the model and take a break for ten minutes. Come back and look at it from three paces and decide if it needs more. If not, go on to the next section and do the same...then step back and look. You see the model 'as a whole' better from a little further away. You can always add more...it's very difficult to take the effect away without starting all over again.
Brush painting chips is only one way of applying them too. Some modellers like to use those plastic kitchen scourersfor washing dishes...they're often green. Dip a corner into your paint and then dab it onto some paper or tissue. Use the scourer to dab paint onto your model...less paint is better here. Being a control freak, I don't like this method and prefer to paint each chip by hand. Another way to do it is a method I often use on aircraft to simulate chipped (down to the metal) paint. You can paint your chips with liquid mask ('Maskol' by Humbrol or similar) before you paint the dark yellow. Then, each and every bit of mask needs to be found and pulled off. The result is good because what you've actually done is have the chip as a 'hole' in the yellow rather than painted onto the yellow (as mentioned in the previous post). The eye registers this as an actual chip and so works very well. It is however, very tedious and the liquid mask is very hard to get looking natural. It's very viscous, dries very fast (on the brush) and honestly...it stinks too.
Below is the liquid mask effect as applied to my P-39 Airacobra which has 'Mr Metalcote' painted under the green camo. Just another way of doing things.
Decals 006.jpg (89.93K)
Number of downloads: 180
Brush painting chips is only one way of applying them too. Some modellers like to use those plastic kitchen scourersfor washing dishes...they're often green. Dip a corner into your paint and then dab it onto some paper or tissue. Use the scourer to dab paint onto your model...less paint is better here. Being a control freak, I don't like this method and prefer to paint each chip by hand. Another way to do it is a method I often use on aircraft to simulate chipped (down to the metal) paint. You can paint your chips with liquid mask ('Maskol' by Humbrol or similar) before you paint the dark yellow. Then, each and every bit of mask needs to be found and pulled off. The result is good because what you've actually done is have the chip as a 'hole' in the yellow rather than painted onto the yellow (as mentioned in the previous post). The eye registers this as an actual chip and so works very well. It is however, very tedious and the liquid mask is very hard to get looking natural. It's very viscous, dries very fast (on the brush) and honestly...it stinks too.
Below is the liquid mask effect as applied to my P-39 Airacobra which has 'Mr Metalcote' painted under the green camo. Just another way of doing things.
Decals 006.jpg (89.93K)
Number of downloads: 180
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#8
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:39 AM
The next step is my favourite. Artists oil paint is the KING of paints. Very slow drying (sometimes, decades), beautiful, vibrant, alive colours and capable of the softest most subtle blending and feathering...the smell great too. It helps here to have some 'colour theory' (knowledge of colour wheels and how to mix up the exact coour you need. If anybody needs help with this or a refresher, just let me know...it's very useful info for modellers).
I mixed up a colour that was very close to my base colour dark yellow...see pic below.
Colour Match.jpg (55.42K)
Number of downloads: 182
With a goodly amount of this colour on my palette (an old CD jewel case), I divide my amount into three equal sized lumps. To one, I add some white to lighten, to one I add some black to darken (duh!) and one I leave as is. I then dab some of each in small splotches onto an area of the model as in the (very crappy) pic below.
Oil 1.jpg (41.61K)
Number of downloads: 182
With a wide brush, I start to work the paint into the base colour...as it thins out over the surface, it gets transluscent...meaning it has its own colour but also shows what colour is under it.
Oil 2.jpg (54.33K)
Number of downloads: 185
You can then wet the mix right on the model with turpentine to thin it out. This technique suggests fading from the sun, dirt streaks (if you apply it 'directionally') and any number of surface altering influences. On vertical surfaces...finish this effect with downward strokes...gravity pulls dust, rain marks, mud, whatever, toward the ground. The paint will be very thin and the chips will still show...but remember, the grey under the yellow will get dirty too.
You can take your time with this...even a few days because your first mix of oils will stay workable for a long time before a skin forms on it. A thing to know here is that the oil will naturally dry satin. If you want matt, you can add a small amount of turpentine to the mix either on your pallette or like I do, on the model. If you want a glossy finish, you can add linseed oil which is available at art stores...it's what artists use to dilute oil for detailed work on canvas. Oil paints are so good you can get away with a very cheap set...my first set was $4.50 Aussie for a set of twelve and they were fine. Being a painter too, I have the good stuff. The colour you'll use the most is white and then black...for mixing, lightening and darkening.
I mixed up a colour that was very close to my base colour dark yellow...see pic below.
Colour Match.jpg (55.42K)
Number of downloads: 182
With a goodly amount of this colour on my palette (an old CD jewel case), I divide my amount into three equal sized lumps. To one, I add some white to lighten, to one I add some black to darken (duh!) and one I leave as is. I then dab some of each in small splotches onto an area of the model as in the (very crappy) pic below.
Oil 1.jpg (41.61K)
Number of downloads: 182
With a wide brush, I start to work the paint into the base colour...as it thins out over the surface, it gets transluscent...meaning it has its own colour but also shows what colour is under it.
Oil 2.jpg (54.33K)
Number of downloads: 185
You can then wet the mix right on the model with turpentine to thin it out. This technique suggests fading from the sun, dirt streaks (if you apply it 'directionally') and any number of surface altering influences. On vertical surfaces...finish this effect with downward strokes...gravity pulls dust, rain marks, mud, whatever, toward the ground. The paint will be very thin and the chips will still show...but remember, the grey under the yellow will get dirty too.
You can take your time with this...even a few days because your first mix of oils will stay workable for a long time before a skin forms on it. A thing to know here is that the oil will naturally dry satin. If you want matt, you can add a small amount of turpentine to the mix either on your pallette or like I do, on the model. If you want a glossy finish, you can add linseed oil which is available at art stores...it's what artists use to dilute oil for detailed work on canvas. Oil paints are so good you can get away with a very cheap set...my first set was $4.50 Aussie for a set of twelve and they were fine. Being a painter too, I have the good stuff. The colour you'll use the most is white and then black...for mixing, lightening and darkening.
This post has been edited by Geek44: October 03, 2008 - 05:45 AM
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#9
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:51 AM
This pic shows the technique described above to best advantage. Look closely at the front fenders and note the colour variation.
Final IV 008.jpg (76.61K)
Number of downloads: 184
This technique also helps 'bring it all together' and is done on all parts of the vehicle except the tracks. The downside to this is that when you've finished, it's good to leave it for a week or so for the oil paint to cure. Being a very thin coat, it doesn't take months to dry...a week should suffice to be sure. Patience is a virtue in this hobby and I've found that attention to each tiny detail comes together for great results (which means results I'm happy with).
Final IV 008.jpg (76.61K)
Number of downloads: 184
This technique also helps 'bring it all together' and is done on all parts of the vehicle except the tracks. The downside to this is that when you've finished, it's good to leave it for a week or so for the oil paint to cure. Being a very thin coat, it doesn't take months to dry...a week should suffice to be sure. Patience is a virtue in this hobby and I've found that attention to each tiny detail comes together for great results (which means results I'm happy with).
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#10
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:55 AM
LAH 1 SS said:
Geek 44 great thread mate keep it coming. I love to see this sort of stuff
No sweat mate...I will. Enough for today though...more tomorrow...I haven't finished yet.
Peace.
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#11
C.Blanco
- Sergeant
-
- Group: Members
- Posts: 182
- Joined: September-26 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 07:25 AM
It´s great to see how you explain your modelling and painting technics, friend.
A very usefull post to everybody. Thanks a lot for it.
You have never used the method of the sponge to simulate little scratches and wears??
A very usefull post to everybody. Thanks a lot for it.
You have never used the method of the sponge to simulate little scratches and wears??
"KAWALSKY"
#12
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 04:48 PM
Not much Carlos...I haven't. I don't use many techniques like that even though I've seen great results achieved by other modellers. I find the results a bit 'uniform' for my tastes...perhaps I just need to practice a bit though.
Peace.
Peace.
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#13
Antonio Velazquez
- Private First Class
-
- Group: Members
- Posts: 41
- Joined: September-26 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 04:57 PM
Superb tutorial, mate...congratulations
Best Regards
Antonio Velázquez
Best Regards
Antonio Velázquez
#14
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:13 PM
Many might recognize Mig's methods in this thread. I started the model with the intention of copying his methods exactly as an experiment...he's taught me a lot. However, I got carried away a bit...I'm still happy with the result and for me, this is the best model I've ever built so far. Thanks for the encouragement guys. Feel free to add to this thread.
Peace.
Peace.
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#15
C.Blanco
- Sergeant
-
- Group: Members
- Posts: 182
- Joined: September-26 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 05:26 PM
Geek, be sure this is a very good model. I´m not a layer when i tell you this is one of the better DAK Panzer IV i´ve seen (and I´ve seen a lot).
The Panzer IV is not an easy kit, and yours is a perfect build and perfect paint job.
Don´t doubt it.
About Mig´s FAQ. Is a good book, and a very good help for every modeller, with or without experice. A very good guide for some technics...that you´re applying very well, mate.
Cheers.
The Panzer IV is not an easy kit, and yours is a perfect build and perfect paint job.
Don´t doubt it.
About Mig´s FAQ. Is a good book, and a very good help for every modeller, with or without experice. A very good guide for some technics...that you´re applying very well, mate.
Cheers.
"KAWALSKY"
#19
Geek44
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 7245
- Joined: February-27 08
Posted October 03, 2008 - 11:59 PM
Indeed I don't McCoy. I think your D is a very good effort considering you didn't have access to an airbrush when you painted it. What you've done instead is to apply a very striking paint job that impressed me quite a lot. I like both our IVs mate...and I think any comparisons are like comparing apples to oranges, chalk and cheese. I'm always uncomfortable when people start using terms like 'better than' or 'not as good as' when it comes to models as you know. Yours is a Tamiya kit for a start...an old clunker and far less detail than my DML version. But that's not the point.
What I admire about all of your models McCoy, is that you got off your behind and built them. Simple as that. You put something of McCoy into an anonymous copy of a kit which, if you hadn't built it, made it, loved it, hated it, crafted it, worked it and created it would just be a bunch of meaningless plastic. You gave it life mate...that's what I admire.
Thanks for the kind words Carlos...it means a lot.
Peace.
What I admire about all of your models McCoy, is that you got off your behind and built them. Simple as that. You put something of McCoy into an anonymous copy of a kit which, if you hadn't built it, made it, loved it, hated it, crafted it, worked it and created it would just be a bunch of meaningless plastic. You gave it life mate...that's what I admire.
Thanks for the kind words Carlos...it means a lot.
Peace.
'If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Then suffocate 'em in their sleep.'
#20
McCoy
- General
-
- Group: Super Moderators
- Posts: 8175
- Joined: February-15 08
Posted October 04, 2008 - 04:33 AM
Well, all my finished kits can be view in the member showcase forum except my TII that can be seen in the follow as I build forum if anyone is interested in my "dabbling" with a brush...
Modellers do it with models!
