[Maglar]

Hey guys, I really want to make this thread the main one where people come and post pictures of new stuff they have recently learned and can get direct feedback if it has worked or needs more attention. As we are all learning, especially me, we need that one location where all the experts have given their opinion. If this thread already exists move it.

I'll start us off with my seam work, I have struggled with it and got many great tips from you guys here. I have used the sideways motion with my nail filer and sand technique for these two projects. The stuka came out great on the top but needs some putty / filler on the bottom right and I sanded more under the nose. Here are my pictures of my attempt, would love the feedback. I have not used primer on either yet also.

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[Maglar]

Here is my 54mm horse which came in two halves, I used the same technique as above. He has a chip on his lower neck but the saddle will be covering that up.

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[Freightshaker]

I would invest in a set of sanding sticks. Squadron Mail Order has a great set. They range from coarse all the way down to a burnishing tool.

Another good investment is a set of small needle files. They're great for getting into places normal tools can't.

[Geek44]

I'm not disagreeing with Freight here per se...God knows he knows his stuff when it comes to modelling, but I find files too coarse and they scar the surface terribly. Of course that might be my technique. However, the needle files are very useful as he said. I wrap my wet and dry paper around them to get into those hard to sand areas. I have some crappy old ones I use when I sand wet. I don't want my 'good' files to rust.
Peace.

[Geek44]

Mag, the third pic from the top showing the underside of the tail of your Stuka represents what I believe will be your biggest challenge here as far as seams go. The seam itself appears to be in a depression and will require that depression to be filled out to conform with the curve of the fuselage...resulting in a loss of detail. Another tough one might be the edges of the radiator intake at the front too. I usually tackle edges like that in two or three hits.
Peace.

[Aussie Dave]

Maglar said:

Hey guys, I really want to make this thread the main one where people come and post pictures of new stuff they have recently learned and can get direct feedback if it has worked or needs more attention. As we are all learning, especially me, we need that one location where all the experts have given their opinion. If this thread already exists move it.

I'll start us off with my seam work, I have struggled with it and got many great tips from you guys here. I have used the sideways motion with my nail filer and sand technique for these two projects. The stuka came out great on the top but needs some putty / filler on the bottom right and I sanded more under the nose. Here are my pictures of my attempt, would love the feedback. I have not used primer on either yet also.

Yikes!!... You want some advice?

Put that "Box Cutter" I can see in your photos back in the tool box and get a "Hobby Knife" Set for yourself.

They don't cost too much money, depending on the brand and how many pieces (different type blades.) there are of course, but a basic set is a "Must Have" for any modeller.








Of course this one would be a better set to have and at USD$15.00 isn't much considering the lifetime of use you would get out of it.


(It even has a nice wooden case instead of a plastic one.)


IMHO as a modeller a knife set is the most important tool/s to have for modelling styrene kits.



Cheers,
Dave

[Geek44]

Crikey Dave, that's posh. I have a scalpel handle. It can accommodate many kinds of blade but I use straight ones mostly. I keep the odd curved one around for emergencies. At 70 cents a blade it's pretty cheap.
Nice sets though, I still have the remains of a similar one my Dad had. Wooden box and a couple of handles you can't get blades for anymore. It even has a small plane that fits in the palm of the hand...never used it.
Peace.

[Aussie Dave]

Geek44 said:

Crikey Dave, that's posh. I have a scalpel handle. It can accommodate many kinds of blade but I use straight ones mostly. I keep the odd curved one around for emergencies. At 70 cents a blade it's pretty cheap.
Nice sets though, I still have the remains of a similar one my Dad had. Wooden box and a couple of handles you can't get blades for anymore. It even has a small plane that fits in the palm of the hand...never used it.
Peace.

At only $15.00 I wouldn't call it posh, but it is a nice set.
(What do you spend money wise on a single model kit?)

Yeah the scalpel handles all seem pretty universal when it comes to fitting different blades and I can't imagine removing the flash from figures without that nice long pointy blade to get into the nooks and crannies.

I used to have a blade like a sickle that was brilliant for taking the flash off along the curved surfaces when the two halves of the fuselage are joined.
(It came with the set I bought 20+ years ago, but it isn't sold here as an individual item.)

Your dad's set sounds like its more for wood working seeing it has a plane included.
Curious, does it have any carving type tools in it?


Cheers,
Dave

[Maglar]

"Box Cutter" Lol! I only use it for cutting things off the spruce rack and removing excess plastic, I can handle my blade mate.

I will look into it..

[MAGNA]

Aussie Dave said:

Maglar said:

Hey guys, I really want to make this thread the main one where people come and post pictures of new stuff they have recently learned and can get direct feedback if it has worked or needs more attention. As we are all learning, especially me, we need that one location where all the experts have given their opinion. If this thread already exists move it.

I'll start us off with my seam work, I have struggled with it and got many great tips from you guys here. I have used the sideways motion with my nail filer and sand technique for these two projects. The stuka came out great on the top but needs some putty / filler on the bottom right and I sanded more under the nose. Here are my pictures of my attempt, would love the feedback. I have not used primer on either yet also.

Yikes!!... You want some advice?

Put that "Box Cutter" I can see in your photos back in the tool box and get a "Hobby Knife" Set for yourself.

They don't cost too much money, depending on the brand and how many pieces (different type blades.) there are of course, but a basic set is a "Must Have" for any modeller.








Of course this one would be a better set to have and at USD$15.00 isn't much considering the lifetime of use you would get out of it.


(It even has a nice wooden case instead of a plastic one.)


IMHO as a modeller a knife set is the most important tool/s to have for modelling styrene kits.



Cheers,
Dave

Cool. That set in the blue box is the type I get. $3.00 last time. Unfortunately I have broken one handle and two blades in only four years or so. This set doesn't qualify as a lifetime investment for that reason but price wise it's excellent value.

[Aussie Dave]

Maglar said:

"Box Cutter" Lol! I only use it for cutting things off the spruce rack and removing excess plastic, I can handle my blade mate.

I will look into it..

Sorry Mag, I have to tell you this mate...

A "Spruce" is a type of coniferous evergreen tree in the Family Pinaceae.
The framework around the parts of the model is called the "Sprue/s."

As for removing the parts from a sprue with a box cutter.
I don't know how others do it here, but I snip the parts off leaving some of the sprue on the part and carefully trim it down flush later with a scalpel.

I do it this way so I don't accidentally create a divot in the part where the sprue joined on to it, that will then need to be filled.

Believe me when I say for modelling, a box cutter is no where near as good as a sharp scalpel is for control.



Cheers,
Dave

[Maglar]

I was between sprue and spruce but a red line goes under sprue when you type it so I took a bad hint. Whatevs, you understood me.

[Aussie Dave]

Maglar said:

I was between sprue and spruce but a red line goes under sprue when you type it so I took a bad hint. Whatevs, you understood me.

Ahh, I see.

Never trust "Spell Checker" mate, it lies.
(Or it can't spell.)



Cheers,
Dave

[Freightshaker]

Ahhh, I didn't notice the utility knife.

I do more shaping and molding with my #11 blade than I do with needle files or sanding sticks (BTW Nick, the set has 5 different grits, I can polish canopies with the finest one). Not only can you use the sharp edge, the flat edge works just as well for scraping seams. I've had my old handle for about 20 + years , it's too comfortable to even think of getting a new one.

[Geek44]

Yes Dave, it was a wood working set but whatever works I say.
At $15.00 that set looks like excellent value to be sure and you're right, most of the kits I buy are around the sixty buck mark unless I buy from eBay.
If you find (as most of us already have) that modelling is 'your thing', then I feel it's appropriate to get the best tools you can afford. Cheap tools are a false economy and they also deny you something that I think is important...bear with me here, it's a bit 'weird'. When we evacuated because of the bushfires, I packed up both my airbrushes, my scalpel and my tweezers. The airbrushes because they were darned expensive but the tweezers and scalpel because they're my friends. I've had those tools for over twenty years and I can't imagine using any others. I'd feel like I was 'cheating'. I think one develops a rapport and relationship with certain tools and that's an important factor to me. Cheap tools just don't last long enough.
Peace.

[Aussie Dave]

Thats right Scott, you can't do without the old trusty No. 11 Blade.
(It's the blade that gets the most use by me.)



And Nick,

I agree that buying better quality tools is preferable, but I don't think the difference between the expensive brand hobby knives and the cheaper ones rates buying the dearer ones.

The blades will lose their sharpness over time and need to be replaced regardless of what set you buy or how much money it cost you.

I look at tools objectively, if its reliable and does the job its intended for, who cares if its a cheaper brand.

For example, I've got a mate who will only buy DeWALT power tools and nothing else.
Now I think DeWALT tools are fantastic, but considering the amount of use they get with him (which isn't often.), I myself can't justify the cost.
My Ryobi drill works just as well as his DeWALT drill, only mine was a damn sight cheaper to buy than his.
(My drill even gets more use than his does.)

Now if he was a Tradesman or he used them daily thats a different story.


Cheers,
Dave

[Geek44]

Welll I think that's true too Dave. There was a guy at my modelling club who bought a Chinese knock-off airbrush at Auto Barn for fifty bucks...said it was the best airbrush he'd ever used.
I guess there's a danger that with some tools, the cheap ones don't quite cut the mustard and so we may not be able to achieve the results we want. This can be discouraging for younger modellers.
I knew a guy who owned five cars and only bought tools by 'Snap-On' or 'Star Willie' (I've never heard of Star Willie but he assured me they were 'the best tools money could buy). In the end, it turned out that he'd struggle to change a spark plug without the manual. I think the point was more about the fact that he was a 'collector' of tools rather than a user of tools. I understand that even though I don't see the point.
Peace.

[Maglar]

Light coat of primer, id say not bad! The top edges of the wings need some love..

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[RAF Liberators]

I see seams on the leading edges!!!! There are also only 13 bolt heads on the fuselage stub when there should be 15

[Geek44]

I see those seams too but you have to admit...he's getting better very fast eh? Nice one Mag...keep at it. You'll appreciate your own results if you do.
Peace.