Shige's T-34 With Riders

[MAGNA]

Oh I wasn't fibbing, I was doing what so many on other sites do when they want to sound high brow or super knowledgable. You often wonder what is going on when you see such posts, especially when someone else disagrees and they have a fifty seven post bun fight over the month of production and the size of the rivets used. It really can get tedious.

I like the posts that tell you where they were used and what markings etc rather than who welded them and who bolted the wheels on if you know what I mean. From a modelling perspective this is what really counts to me as it is what they were like in the field that matters.

[Tom Houlihan]

Originally Posted by Geek44

Even Tamiya have clear plastic lenses for their headlamps in some of their kits. Having said that, I can't remember if my Pz. IV kit (Dragon) does or not. I didn't put 'em in. Better kits will have them hopefully.

Just remember to use white glue on those! There is something out there supposedly made for clear parts, but it's probably just expensive Elmer's Glue!

As for turret texture...better kits will have it moulded in. Especially on Soviet vehicles because that rough casting is where much of the character of Soviet vehicle lies. Bulky weld seams too. You've opened a can of worms here Em. Here's the short version...

There's a way to do that, but I can't remember specifically where/when I read it. Basically, it involves putting liquid glue on the plastic itself to soften it up, then using a hard brush, or something similar to 'stipple' or otherwise add the texture to the "metal." Once it dries, it's hard, and presents the right texture. If you do it right.

From what I've seen, people attack their pristine Panther turrets with the motor tool and then 'soften' the effect by coating it with Tamiya putty thinned with liquid glue (works well but cures very quickly. Has many other applications too). When hard, this is then sanded back a bit to soften further. I've only tried this once on my test model and wasn't happy with my results. Until I get better at it, my Panther turrets will remain perfectly smooth.

Okay, while I understand the value of "test models," since I'm broke and/or cheap, I'll share the first thought that came into my brain housing group.

Instead of mucking up a $30 kit, why not just buy a few sheets of styrene plastic? Work up your techniques on those! Do you think cabinet makers practice on Teak? Don't ruin a good kit! Ruin a cheap sheet of plastic!!

I have coated my Pz. IV's exhaust with this gunk to suggest textured/heated/burnt/rusted metal. It has one coat of Humbrol (why?!?!?!) paint on it and I'm agonizing about how to proceed. I'm thinking of giving it a shot with Tamiya 'Smoke' to get an acrylic basis for further weathering.

I'm not sure what made me think of it, but I tried something for heavy rust, and I kinda like it. Toner. I filled an empty paint jar with the remnants from a photocopier one time. What I have should last me forever. I coat the part with glue, then either jam it into the jar, or just pour the toner all over it. When dry, I paint it orange, then heavily wash it with black. Not perfect, but looks pretty good, with a lot of texture!

[MAGNA]

Two part toner and developer from a copier could be good to Tom. Copiers such as Sharp have a seperate developer which has a lot of iron in it. It will rust for you. The other place to look would be a brake service centre where they skim disks and drums. The filings from the skimming are very fine and will also rust if you add a bit of water to hurry things along. Lots of possibilities here.

[Geek44]

My test models are kits I've already ruined in another way. Or cheapo $20 ones. They sure aren't 'teak' by any means.

[Whiterook]

There was a time one used to find models galore at yard and garage sales...no more. Other that a decent Estate Sale, if you can find one, the model shows seem to be the best avenue to pick up some decent models on the cheap.