RSO Early version

[Whiterook]

Now that's an understatement! LT, what did you use for the rust "drips"...artist oils?

[lufttiger]

Yep, oils, i've tried pastels, Acrylic & enamals, which none really did the job.

[Whiterook]

I think the primary method I've read on that is the preferred use of Artist Oils. I plan on experimenting with those soon!

[Geek44]

Originally Posted by Whiterook

I think the primary method I've read on that is the preferred use of Artist Oils. I plan on experimenting with those soon!

They're pretty easy to use in the modelling context mate. Just be sure you use them over acrylics.

[Lemm]

Another nice job LT...god some of you guys punch your work out fast...well fast compared to me anyway. One tiny wee bit of criticism if I may. I would have dirtied up the floor of the tray and added bit of grass leaves and other debris. Just looks a bit new thats all. Otherwise....great work as I have come to expect from you.

Phil

[Whiterook]

Originally Posted by Geek44

They're pretty easy to use in the modelling context mate. Just be sure you use them over acrylics.

Now, I'm assuming you use the Artist Oils over a topcoat of some sort, and not just right over the Acrylic paint?

[Geek44]

Nope...right onto the acrylic mate.
This is a procedure I've only recently learned and the ONLY reason I force that damnable Tamiya acrylic muck through my airbrush. After the acrylic has cured properly, it's impervious to turpentine or white spirit or whatever you use to dilute/thin your artist oils. Filters I make from turpentine and enamel paint and rust drips could be made by thinning artist oils, painting on the 'drip' and then blending the drip with turpentine. You can wet the surface to your hearts content without fear of damaging the base coat. For a matt finish to your oil paint 'effects', dilute with turpentine. For a more satin/gloss finish (oil or fuel stains) use linseed oil. With practice one can achieve the most beautiful and subtle effects this way. I use it on aircraft too (see the P-39). I paint with Humbrol enamel but the gloss coat with Tamiya acrylic. All the filters, washes and panel line work goes over this gloss coat that protects the enamel base colour. I do aircraft this way because they aren't really matt as vehicles are more prone to be.
I can't encourage you enough to experiment on a cheap kit or even some scrap parts...I usually buy a $20 kit to experiment on (see my I-16).
These techniques are fairly new to me, say within the last two years, and have proven to be a revelation. The standard of my models has risen because of this pretty basic understanding of the different paint types and their capabilities. I only wish I'd known this stuff earlier.

[McCoy]

You can still use Humbrol n' just aply a layer Pledge on top before usin' turpentine/oil on the model. I'm also curious 'bout tryin' to use Terpinex, a mild turpentine alternative that's nontoxic (yeah right...) n' odour free as a medium. I used it on my Stuart directly on Humbrol back in the day. I don't know 'bout the availability of it worldwide though.

[Geek44]

I've found that Humbrols can be quite hardy if they're left to cure for long enough. Tough enough to tolerate light working with washes and the like, but sometimes I just don't fancy risking it. Does the Pledge dry matt? That stuff is available here (unlike Future).

[McCoy]

I think that Pledge n' Future is the same. Haven't used it for myself but you should use washes on a gloss surface n' then when it's done you can flatcoat it if you like or give it a satin coat if it's an a/c.