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Re: some of my models.
Mate, I remembered the Famo and the red-tailed Mig, but I'd forgotten the others. The Chinese Mig and Sabre look awesome. That Sabre is very, very tidy...the aluminium looks beautiful and the decals too. For me though, the Famo is supreme. That weathering is the kind of thing I would attempt and it makes what is for me, a less than glamorous kit, into a great model. I love it.
BTW, have you seen the resin, single piece loads for the Famo? They fill most of the tray, have excellent 'items' in them (one has a Maybach engine, another has a Zundapp motorcycle) and are very well cast...I forget who makes 'em but I can find out easily enough. Peace.
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http://www.essmc.org.au/ Eastern Suburbs Scale Modelling Club 'Son, helping others is what seperates the humans from the rubbish'. - Me to my boy. |
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Re: some of my models.
i have seen that famo engine and i was toying with the idea of getting it but i didn't want the eyes to stray from the paintwork and the clutter. i was looking on the net and in books to see how the germans stowed their equipment and in most cases, they just had it lying around so it was close to hand in case of emergencies. i expect trying to fix a tank under battle conditions, the last thing on your mind would be the neatness of the vehicle. the red-tailed MIG was built straight from the box and took only 5 days to build. the camo MIG was my first attempt at an aircraft camo using my passche airbrush and i was chuffed to bits with it. as for the sabre, i sprayed that with alclad. spray it with gloss black first then the alclad aluminum. what a beautiful finish. highly recommended. it's a shame my 3 year old daughter decided to see if it would fly down the stairs.
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Re: some of my models.
Never tried the Alclad mate, although I have three bottles in three different shades. I haven't had the pants to try a natural metal finish seriously yet. But I have a pretty big project in the pipeline for a P-38 in aluminium. There are some wonderful effects to be had with natural metal. Many are quite simple to achieve too...as I say, sometimes just becoming 'aware' of the new technique can change one's modelling for the better permanently.
It looks really good on the Sabre. I guess the first question I would ask is, can you mask onto an Alclad finish? I would guess it's like other metalizers...like newsprint? Comes off on your fingers?
__________________
http://www.essmc.org.au/ Eastern Suburbs Scale Modelling Club 'Son, helping others is what seperates the humans from the rubbish'. - Me to my boy. |
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Re: some of my models.
i've taken a couple more pics. the first is something i wanted to buy but there was nothing available. it's parts of a Horsa glider used by the Polish in the battle for Arnhem. as you may know, the Polish were slaughtered because the german knew they were coming. i'm going to add a german flak crew posing next to the wreckage with a soldier taking their picture.
the next pics are of a german truck coverted to a anti-aircraft gun with the chipped paint scheme and would have been seen in north africa. the gun came from the Sdk.fz 222 kit and was canibalised so that i could use it for the horch both models are still to be finished. ![]() ![]()
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Re: some of my models.
Quote:
ALCLAD 2 - Model Lacquers - Natural Metal Finish |
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Re: some of my models.
Wow...awesome stuff here mate! I love the desert paint scheme...on the truck, it just looks so amazing. What's you're technique, if I may ask? I'd love to replicate something (well, close anyway) like that. Could you please post a step-by-step description of your method sometime?
__________________
"The Golden Rule of War, Speed - Simplicity - Boldness" "YOU ARE NOT BEATEN UNTIL YOU ADMIT IT. HENCE, DON'T..." -- General George S. Patton, Jr |
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Re: some of my models.
it's very, very easy to do. first get a can of tamiya german grey spray paint, you then leave it for at least a week to fully cure and harden. you then hand paint the dark yellow over the top using humbrol number 83. after 24 hours, get a paint brush and load it with cellalose thinners and dab it onto the dark yellow. after a few seconds, the dark yellow starts to craze. dry it off with a hair dryer then get a bit of cellotape and put it across the crazed part. it comes out just like the famo and the horch did. be careful you don't over do it with the thinners because it will attack the grey and it shows the plastic colour that's underneath the paint. the best thing to do is practice on an old model or a scrap piece of paper. hope that is clear enough. if you have any problems, let me know. i'm always there to help.
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