Tips and helpful suggestions

[McCoy]

There's plenty of material out in the free for those who don't mind bendin' their backs n' pick it up. Just dry the plants n' leaves with glycerine.

PRESERVING AND DRYING FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE

This method is more suitable for foliage than flowers, but certain flowers with "bracts" (modified leaves), such as Hydrangea and Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland), will glycerine well. Both the flowers and foliage of Garrya elliptica preserve well, turning almost black. Grasses are also very successful, as is Gypsophila and Alchemilla mollis. Conifers also produce some lovely results.

Evergreens can be preserved all the year round, as long as they are kept reasonably warm during preservation, but deciduous material should be preserved between the end of June and mid-September. New spring growth will not take up the solution, nor will leaves which are turning colour in Autumn (Fall). Foliage should always be mature when preserved.

The colour of foliage preserved in glycerine is usually brown, but different types of plant material will glycerine to different shades of brown, from straw colour, through olive, to tan to nearly black, and every shade in between! The time of year that material is glycerined, and the light levels will also make a difference to the finished colour. For example, Beech leaves will preserve to a different brown when glycerined in July, than they will in August, and if they are kept in the dark whilst being preserved, they will turn a deep olive colour, but if done in light, they will turn tan colour. Experimentation is the name of the game! Laurel, White Poplar and Garrya elliptica leaves all turn black when glycerined, which is a lovely contrast in colour, from, for instance, Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland), which turn very pale straw colour. One way to test what colour foliage will turn when glycerined is to pick a leaf and allow it to dry naturally. Whatever colour it goes will be roughly the colour it will turn when preserved. Autumn is the best time to observe this process, as the results are more accurate.

Pick your foliage, and remove any damaged leaves, as these tend to show up even more when glycerined, and is a waste of glycerine! Cut the stems at an angle, and split woody stems about an inch up the stem. It is important to condition your plant material before glycerining to be sure they are drinking, as the glycerine solution is thicker than water, and will often clog stems, resulting in wilting. Place the stems in warm water, and let them drink for a couple of hours, or preferably overnight, before placing in the glycerine solution.

To make the glycerine solution, mix two parts very hot water with one part glycerine and stir thoroughly. Hot water must be used as glycerine is heavier than water, and will sink to the bottom if cold water is used. Allow the mixture to cool off until it is just warm before use. **SPECIAL NOTE - The solution can be re-used time and again. Just sieve it through a fine sieve (or a pair of old tights!) to remove any debris, and re-use it or add it to a fresh batch. Although it turns brown after use, this is perfectly normal, and won't affect the finished results.**

Once conditioned, place the stems in the glycerine solution. The time it takes to preserve the plant material very much depends on what type of plant material is being used. Some things such as Cotoneaster horizontalis will be ready in about 30 hours, whilst things like Aspidistra elatior may take two or three months! Check the material daily, you will be able to see the brown glycerine solution being taken up the veins of the leaves, and when it reaches the top, it's done! Don't allow material to stand in the solution any longer than necessary, as this will result in the glycerine "bleeding" from the leaves, and this can cause a black sooty mould to form, as well as being very messy.....

n' here's some example pics from Jonas Dahlbergs collection of dryed plants n' other useful stuff for diorama creation.




Note that the bark isn't treated with glycerine.

Different sands with various grainsize, sawdust n' flowerpot earth.

A glycerinedried leaf.

[MAGNA]

That is exactly why you guys are making my modelling experience so much better. A brilliant method that I will definitely use.

[Freightshaker]

Shrubbery roots make for convincing trees also.

[MAGNA]

Thanks Freight. They do have the added bonus of looking real too.

I have a couple of books on diorama making and they go to great lengths to show how to make trees, stumps, logs, and so on, even rocks. It is much better to use the real thing where possible and concentrate on the kits as far as I'm concerned.

[Geek44]

Mate if you have hydrangeas in your garden you're set for trees. When the petals fall off the whole flower, the stems make excellent 1/35 scale trees. all you need to do is add foliage (tedious) or just seal it.

[MAGNA]

Originally Posted by Geek44

Mate if you have hydrangeas in your garden you're set for trees. When the petals fall off the whole flower, the stems make excellent 1/35 scale trees. all you need to do is add foliage (tedious) or just seal it.

I have made trees for smaller scale by getting twigs and glueing on some flock. Hydrangeas I can get too. What would you suggest as a good sealer?

[Geek44]

Dunno mate...I've never tried it myself, but I will soon. I suppose I'd try ordinary clear paint through the airbrush...or Testors Dulcote. With a brush, I'd maybe try a 50/50 PVA glue and water mix? These are just guesses mind...maybe you know better?

[MAGNA]

No I haven't tried it either. The PVA solution may well be worth a try though. I also have some of the newer Estapol clear furniture coat. It's a semi gloss and it's the consistency of milk. The other advantage is it's water based so it doesn't blow your head off. The more coats you use on furniture the more shine. I may try and thin some of that with water and see what happens too.

Another query too. What suggestions are there for home made grass / brush. Low as in weeds through to the higher stuff as in Freightshakers picture in post 103.

[Geek44]

I reckon the Estapol idea is a winner mate. I never think of commercial solutions . For grass, my best (and largely uninformed) suggestion would be brush and broom bristles cut to size...there are some 'natural' bristle brushes and brooms out there.

[MAGNA]

Hadn't even thought of brushes and the like for grasses. Brilliant.

I'll let you know if the Estapol is any good.