Question on Final Top Coat

[Aussie Dave]

Originally Posted by Whiterook

The can I bought is Model Master version of Testor's...splitting hairs, probably, but I was directed away from the Testor's Dullcoat to the Model Master version, the hobby shop dude advising it was a bit better.

I never had any problems with Testors Dullcote at all and its desired effect is excellent as far as I'm concerned.

Does the cost differ much between the two?
(Take into account the different bottle sizes.)

Testors Dullcote comes in a bottle that contains 1 3/4 FL. OZ. (51.7mL) opposed to Model Masters Matt Clear Lacquer bottle that contains 1 FL. OZ. (29.5mL)

Cheers,
Dave

[Whiterook]

I bought a rattlecan of Model Master Clear Gloss and a can of dull...each 3 oz.'s, for about $4.50. The little bit I used sprayed out in an even coat, and seemed easy enough to direct. If I try the Gloss on the Panther tank, I'll just do the turret (as that's where the majotity of the decals would go), and try out applying the decals and weathering, then dull coat it. That way, if things really go south, I only have the turret to repair the damage on. At this point though, I'm not anticipating any problems (other than a learning curve with weathering).

[Whiterook]

OK, for those patient enough (or curious enough at my end result) to be following along on this thread, here's the scoop. I painted a scrap piece, then sprayed it with rattlecan Model Master's Gloss Coat. Whereas the lacquer spray didn't effect the Tamiya Acrylics, I halted going any further than the scrap piece, as spraying in a confined space (even with fan ventilation) in the middle of Winter, indoors, proved a road I'm not willing to go down at the present. Man, that stuff is nasty! I decided to figure out a non-toxic (and dare I say eco-friendly?) alternative for my current project, a German Panther. This is what I came up with and used:

For the decals, I gently scrubed the decal area with toothpaste and a damp soft cloth. The toothpaste is a mild abrasive, and smoothed the flat paint to a dull sheen. The decals afixed to that surface "like Butta". they lay flat without any noticable silvering. Decal Setting Solution "melted" the decals onto the surface, especially on the rear cargo pods, with it's "raised X" ribbing. After thoroughly drying, I mixed a little whiteglue and water, mixed well, and coated the decals, providing a Dull Coat over the decal and polished area. Presto-chango...a "green" solution to decaling! I was able to do some light weathering afterwards, and the decals were none the worse for the application.

I'll try my hand at my more elaborate scheme sometime in the future, when I can do so safely, and out of range of my wife's nose.

[lufttiger]

Oh jeez, i wanted to know what would've happened. Ok well it sounds like
there's no problem. See i have this big Centurion tank thats all done painted in Tamiya acrylics. Now the guy who this is for is going to be handling this tank more than most people would, on & off a flat car Train. Tamiya paint will stain & scratch easy, so i'm thinking of a protective coat of the Testors clear flat (rattle can). Your test sounds like it works.

[Whiterook]

Yeah, the Clear Gloss went on with no peeling or bubbling effect. The surface was coated like armor (pun intended!). It went on just like the saleperson at my Hobby shop said it would. He also said Clear Flat would have the same result, so at this point, I have no reason to doubt him. The only thing I noted about the gloss is that, it really brought the brush strokes into clear view, as opposed to the flat acrylic paint surface, which tends to mask the brush strokes due to a lack of sheen. I'm assuming that the Clear Flat was the dulling down of the brush strokes. I'm still definitely going to try the full blown technique; just not during this harsh New England winter.

[lufttiger]

Thanks for your input here, i will do this monster tank this weekend, i only need a flat coat, so that shouldn't take too much time.

[MAGNA]

For those of us who prefer a brush I have been given half a can of clear plastic primer by a spraypainter friend. He gave me the stuff when I was telling him how it is difficult to paint larger areas to be nice and flat with a brush.

This stuff is a clear primer and is used on the plastic bumpers of cars so the paint will have something to stick to and won't run so easily. I tried it on a 1/600 ship model and it worked really well. Not really on topic here but I thought I'd better put this somewhere before I forgot.

Nice idea with the PVA glue too Whiterook. I will try that on a 1/72 to seal it for games and see what happens.

[Whiterook]

Thanks Magna! On the subject of sealing 1/72's for gaming, I used a product from Plaid called "Plaid for Paints", that is Acrylics made especially for plastics. Anyway, this line also makes a sealer, which I used on 1/285 aircraft miniatures (that'll make you eyes cross trying to paint!), and it sealed the acrylics super well...clear as a bell, but slightly glossy...I guess semi-gloss would be more apt a description. If you can find any out your way, at a craft store generally, you may want to give a bottle a try. Incidently, Razorboy has since pointed out to me that Plaid has an All Purpose acrylic called Folk Art, that has a much wider range of colors, and is a smidge less expensive.

Interesting on the car primer...that's thinking out of the box.

[Geek44]

Originally Posted by Aussie Dave

I never had any problems with Testors Dullcote at all and its desired effect is excellent as far as I'm concerned.

Does the cost differ much between the two?
(Take into account the different bottle sizes.)

Testors Dullcote comes in a bottle that contains 1 3/4 FL. OZ. (51.7mL) opposed to Model Masters Matt Clear Lacquer bottle that contains 1 FL. OZ. (29.5mL)

Cheers,
Dave

Are either of these REALLY flat Dave? Which is your preference?

[MAGNA]

Testors and Plaid aren't really available where I am. At least I don't think so. Maybe I should try the paint and craft shops ?