Refurbishing - Page 3

MAGNA · #21 (**permalink**) July 14th, 2008, 04:35 AM

Yes the seam is a nuisance. I was going to use some camo on it but a bit of filing will help too. I have the too hull gaps to fill as well.

Geek44 · #22 (**permalink**) July 15th, 2008, 07:43 AM

I found gap filling to be more challenging on armour. To be honest, there are two quite bad gaps (I could insert the corner of a sheet of paper) in the turret of my Panzer IV but the shape of the beast hides them quite well. I've never had to fill on angles before, only the curves of aircraft which I find much easier. I did use the styrene parts for the main gun on the tank because it had rifling, rather than the turned aluminium barrel provided. The join is cunningly designed by Dragon and would have been invisible because it's hidden by the sleeve the barrel recoils into. I still dutifully filled and sanded it. I can't recommend too highly a set of 'MicroMesh Polishing Cloths'. They're actually very fine sandpaper and if used wet, they never clog. They're not 'paper' either but a coarse woven fabric too so they last forever. They're a bit pricey but a good investment...they come in six grades (all included in a set) and come with a dense foam block to wrap them around for sanding. My finest wet and dry paper is 2000 grit. The finest MicroMesh is 8000! I can use these to sand imperfections out of clear canopy parts. A set cost me $24 Aussie about three years ago.

MAGNA · #23 (**permalink**) July 15th, 2008, 11:14 AM

That sounds like it would be well worth the cost too. On plastic they would be fine for years as you say. Hardware shop or hobby shop ?

I have been visiting our local craft shop a lot lately since the toyshop doesn't really cater for hobbies. There is a lot of great stuff in these places which has been highly useful and is in many cases, cheaper than a hobby shop.

Whiterook · #24 (**permalink**) July 15th, 2008, 07:20 PM

Comin' along very nicely mate! Keep up the good work. Yeah, the craft stores often have similar items at much much less the cost as the hobby shops! A lot of "beading" supplies are so similar! I picked up a beading wire cutting set that had several pices for the price I wold have paind for one sprue cutter! Check their paints, too...they generally sell acrylics, and I've mixed craft store acrylics with Tamiya acrylics to some phenominal results. On filling seams, you may want to try some Elmers, if the gap isn't too broad?

Geek44 · #25 (**permalink**) July 16th, 2008, 01:29 AM

I got mine from a guy in NSW mate. Try Googling 'Firestormmodels'. He's pretty good and if you're into armour...he has everything.
Elmers, which is 'PVA' to us down here is good stuff but I've had problems using it to fill seams. It shrinks when it dries and you can't sand it. It usually ends up pulling away as a single, rubbery piece. I use it only to reinforce joins made with CA glue which is brittle.

Freightshaker · #26 (**permalink**) July 18th, 2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geek44

I found gap filling to be more challenging on armour.

I've always thought the opposite. Armor allows more fudging and covering up of mistakes. On an aircraft the lines and curves are more clean and everything is highly visible. Aircraft also have long seams like fuselages and wings.

Geek44 · #27 (**permalink**) July 18th, 2008, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freightshaker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geek44

I found gap filling to be more challenging on armour.

I've always thought the opposite. Armor allows more fudging and covering up of mistakes. On an aircraft the lines and curves are more clean and everything is highly visible. Aircraft also have long seams like fuselages and wings.

I can see where you're coming from here and those long seams are easy to over work. Detail gets lost and panel lines need to be re-scribed. I guess, when I typed the post above, I was thinking of my Dragon 251. Like your pioneer vehicle (I assume) the hull has two halves top and bottom. On mine, after several dry fits, it's become apparent that I'll need to use a little putty. My problem is that the seam is visible from the outside and the inside as well. I've never had a problem like that before.

Freightshaker · #28 (**permalink**) July 19th, 2008, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geek44

I can see where you're coming from here and those long seams are easy to over work. Detail gets lost and panel lines need to be re-scribed. I guess, when I typed the post above, I was thinking of my Dragon 251. Like your pioneer vehicle (I assume) the hull has two halves top and bottom. On mine, after several dry fits, it's become apparent that I'll need to use a little putty. My problem is that the seam is visible from the outside and the inside as well. I've never had a problem like that before.

Lightly sand both mating sides, leaving the residue, and apply liquid glue normally. The glue will melt the sanding dust and fill in the seam. Any seam that is left over is filled with gap filling superglue. I usually apply the glue with an old #11 blade so it goes exactly where I want it. Very little clean up is required, just a steady hand

.

Geek44 · #29 (**permalink**) July 20th, 2008, 01:40 AM

That's a great idea Freight...except we don't have gap filling superglue (that I know of) down here...no biggy, Milliput is my favourite.

Freightshaker · #30 (**permalink**) July 20th, 2008, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geek44

That's a great idea Freight...except we don't have gap filling superglue (that I know of) down here...no biggy, Milliput is my favourite.

I use ZapGap medium. It's just like regular Cyro glue but thicker and more controllable. Most hobby shops should have it, if not you can mail order it. Great stuff!! It dries quickly and can be sanded, painted, etc.