How I Weather

[Geek44]

In response to a PM from a member hoping to improve his weathering skills (), I start this thread as a kind of 'How I Did It' guide to my Panzer IV. To be sure, this isn't the only way of doing things...indeed there are always multiple ways of achieving similar results. These can depend on taste, preference, finances...all kinds of reasons. As usual, everybody is welcome to ask, tell, add or just comment here. I hope to get pretty detailed in my explanations so this might take me a few days to get to 'finished'. The kit in question has a certain amount of interior detail but for this thread, I'll concentrate only on the outside of the tank. It's all the same anyway. I'll also spread myself over multiple posts for ease of 'digestion'. So...here we go!

[Geek44]

From the start, I planned this as a DAK vehicle. It helps a lot to know what conditions were like where your model served. It also helps to know how your subject worked, what it was capable of and how it was painted and finished in real life. These vehicles (I believe) arrived in Africa still painted Panzer Grey and were painted Dunkelgelb (Dark Yellow) in the field...I'm sure somebody will correct me on that... .
So that's exactly what I did. I painted the whoe shebang with Tamiya's 'Dark Grey' which is acrylic paint...an important detail. Acrylic paint won't be damaged or disturbed by turpentine or thinners used for oil or enamel paints. I applied this coat with an airbrush...not a neccessity, but it helps create a smoother, even finish. For me, if the real thing was sprayed, I spray...if the real thing was brushed, I brush...easy.
Sadly, I don't have a pic of this and I had two pics with 'Upload Errors' here...bear with me please.
Peace.

[Geek44]

In the pic below, you can see the 'pristine' base coat and the vehicle from the front. Of note here is the DAK palm decal which is a grey rectangle with the palm in the centre. On the real vehicle, the palm was stencilled on in white and then masked for the spraying of the dark yellow which left the grey showing around the palm. On the model, the decal is a grey rectangle with the white palm...the grey colour of the decal is the grey I will have to use to simulate chipped yellow paint later.



In this pic (below), you can see that I've begun to simulate some chipping of the turret numbers by painting small 'bites' out of the edges and inside the numbers with thinned Tamiya Dark Yellow...I used a 000 brush for this.
All decals on this model were applied onto gloss acrylic areas I sprayed only where decals would be. After they had been applied, I sprayed gloss clear over them too...it imparts a 'painted on' look and that's what we're trying to suggest.

[Geek44]

By now, we have a patchy vehicle with matt bits, gloss bits and everything in between from the decal application. Never fear...subsequent procedures will bring it all together.
The next stage was the 'filters'. Filters are a new term for an old technique and these are made possible by the fact that the acrylic base coat is impervious to turpentine and thinner. I usually use the lid of a soda bottle blu tacked to my desk for stability. With an eye dropper, I fill this almost to the top with ordinary turpentine that I buy at the supermarket. Then I add a single drop of enamel paint. I use Humbrol. The colour you choose here isn't really very important. I've seen blue, orange...almost any colour used for this. Personally, I stick to 'dirt' colours that are close to and usually a bit darker than the base. Lighter colours work too, but you need to apply more coats. When the filter is mixed...it's like a very weak wash, coat the whole model with a wide brush...try to touch each part only once or twice but it's not critical...each coat is very, very subtle. The idea is to subtly vary the base colour so that it doesn't look so 'monotone' (monotonous...mono = one, tone = colour...ie. boring). Leave each coat to dry for at least two hours. Here, you see areas where the filter has been applied shining wet (damp really) and matt where I haven't been yet. (below)




For the engine covers and muzzle, I wanted to suggest discolouration of the paint due to heat. I added more filters to these areas to achieve it...dark brown as I recall. In the pic below, I've done the engine covers with a coat and it's still wet.



In the next pic, it has dried and you can see the variation in 'shade' on the covers compared to the rest.



These filters are very subtle and it takes a few coats to begin to see the results but they're worth the time. When to stop applying these is really a matter of personal taste. Some parts of this model have around five coats...some (engine covers for example) have around twenty...that's about forty hours considering drying time. I say again...worth the effort.
To clarify, the whole model has several coats of filters but my camera is only able to show the more obvious variation in tone on the covers.

[LAH 1 SS]

Geek 44 great thread mate keep it coming. I love to see this sort of stuff

[Geek44]

The next step is about the only step that I think requires some experience and/or 'skill' because paint chips are hard to get looking 'random' but at the same time 'logical'. One needs to think about where and why paint will be damaged and knowing how the vehicle worked, crew habits...anything that might help. Obvious areas would be where the crew mounts and dismounts...where they load ammo, the edges of access panels and hatches and where routine maintenance takes place. Imagine tools being dropped, boots, boxes...it's not so hard if you think about it a bit.
I diluted some 'Dark Grey' by Tamiya (acrylic again) and using the finest brush I have (000), I mentally broke the model up into manageable bites and slowly applied my chips. What's reall happening is that I'm painting the colour that lies under the dark yellow on top of it. The eye isn't really fooled by that so there are things we can do...more about that later.
In the pic below, I'm in the process...note the fenders are still in tact.



Note that I concentrate on the edges of things...there are still chips elsewhere, but edges are more 'exposed' to bumps and bruises. Below, the turret roof. Note that I've painted 'scratches' as though something had dragged across the surface. I found that these really, really made the effect work well.



Below...the wheels.



Note the damaged tyres and the one that's actually missing some rubber. This vehicle has been around and seen some action. There's some damage to the turret bin too. The only thing I would do differently next time would be to bend the fenders too.
Don't forget to carry every technique you try to all parts of the model. You'll notice that I have missing tools and stowage on the finished model. Here, I used the PE clamps included with the kit. Where the tools are present, I used the tools with the clamps moulded on. All of the weathering I did to the tank was also done on the tiny, moulded-on clamps, wheels, fire extinguisher...everything...we're aiming for 'unity'. Clean tools on a mucky tank look silly.
Lastly, you can apply a very fine line of lightened yellow (getting towards white) to the edges of some of the larger chips. It gives the chip a '3D' look and helps to push the grey 'under' the yellow (remember, it's actually on top of it).

[Geek44]

The best way to apply your chips is to do a small amount evenly...perhaps on the glacis only. Step back from the model and take a break for ten minutes. Come back and look at it from three paces and decide if it needs more. If not, go on to the next section and do the same...then step back and look. You see the model 'as a whole' better from a little further away. You can always add more...it's very difficult to take the effect away without starting all over again.
Brush painting chips is only one way of applying them too. Some modellers like to use those plastic kitchen scourersfor washing dishes...they're often green. Dip a corner into your paint and then dab it onto some paper or tissue. Use the scourer to dab paint onto your model...less paint is better here. Being a control freak, I don't like this method and prefer to paint each chip by hand. Another way to do it is a method I often use on aircraft to simulate chipped (down to the metal) paint. You can paint your chips with liquid mask ('Maskol' by Humbrol or similar) before you paint the dark yellow. Then, each and every bit of mask needs to be found and pulled off. The result is good because what you've actually done is have the chip as a 'hole' in the yellow rather than painted onto the yellow (as mentioned in the previous post). The eye registers this as an actual chip and so works very well. It is however, very tedious and the liquid mask is very hard to get looking natural. It's very viscous, dries very fast (on the brush) and honestly...it stinks too.
Below is the liquid mask effect as applied to my P-39 Airacobra which has 'Mr Metalcote' painted under the green camo. Just another way of doing things.

[Geek44]

The next step is my favourite. Artists oil paint is the KING of paints. Very slow drying (sometimes, decades), beautiful, vibrant, alive colours and capable of the softest most subtle blending and feathering...the smell great too. It helps here to have some 'colour theory' (knowledge of colour wheels and how to mix up the exact coour you need. If anybody needs help with this or a refresher, just let me know...it's very useful info for modellers).
I mixed up a colour that was very close to my base colour dark yellow...see pic below.



With a goodly amount of this colour on my palette (an old CD jewel case), I divide my amount into three equal sized lumps. To one, I add some white to lighten, to one I add some black to darken (duh!) and one I leave as is. I then dab some of each in small splotches onto an area of the model as in the (very crappy) pic below.



With a wide brush, I start to work the paint into the base colour...as it thins out over the surface, it gets transluscent...meaning it has its own colour but also shows what colour is under it.



You can then wet the mix right on the model with turpentine to thin it out. This technique suggests fading from the sun, dirt streaks (if you apply it 'directionally') and any number of surface altering influences. On vertical surfaces...finish this effect with downward strokes...gravity pulls dust, rain marks, mud, whatever, toward the ground. The paint will be very thin and the chips will still show...but remember, the grey under the yellow will get dirty too.
You can take your time with this...even a few days because your first mix of oils will stay workable for a long time before a skin forms on it. A thing to know here is that the oil will naturally dry satin. If you want matt, you can add a small amount of turpentine to the mix either on your pallette or like I do, on the model. If you want a glossy finish, you can add linseed oil which is available at art stores...it's what artists use to dilute oil for detailed work on canvas. Oil paints are so good you can get away with a very cheap set...my first set was $4.50 Aussie for a set of twelve and they were fine. Being a painter too, I have the good stuff. The colour you'll use the most is white and then black...for mixing, lightening and darkening.

[Geek44]

This pic shows the technique described above to best advantage. Look closely at the front fenders and note the colour variation.



This technique also helps 'bring it all together' and is done on all parts of the vehicle except the tracks. The downside to this is that when you've finished, it's good to leave it for a week or so for the oil paint to cure. Being a very thin coat, it doesn't take months to dry...a week should suffice to be sure. Patience is a virtue in this hobby and I've found that attention to each tiny detail comes together for great results (which means results I'm happy with).

[Geek44]

Geek 44 great thread mate keep it coming. I love to see this sort of stuff

No sweat mate...I will. Enough for today though...more tomorrow...I haven't finished yet.
Peace.