Dragon's Sdkfz. 184 Elefant '39-'45 Series 1/35

[McCoy]

Hahaha...

[Geek44]

Here's the thing with the zimmerit finished. I think I found a workable method in the end but I wonder if my zim tool was a bit too narrow...anyways...

Above are the main subassemblies kinda placed together, it was the panel on the fighting compartment visible here that I did last, except for...

The triangular patch on zimmerit on the front plate and the line halfway up on the sides were masked with Tamiya tape.

Above is the left side of the fighting compartment. you can see where I've drilled out a pistol-port.

Getting closer to the really fun part now.
Peace.

[Pvt Mutt]

Your zimm looks just fine to me,great job.

Tony

[Geek44]

Thanks Tony. I think it's passable and certainly my best attempt so far. With this particular pattern, I wonder if I have too many 'columns'...I haven't counted. Last time I tried this, maybe ten or more years ago, I remember counting the number of columns along one front panel (of a Jagdpanther IV L/70) and cutting my zimm tool accordingly. Zimmerit is one of those things that can hold a modeller back from building certain vehicles I think. With my awakening enjoyment of armour kits, I don't want to feel like 'I can't' build anything.
I also like this method because it makes damaging the zimmerit very easy. I've used a curved blade (my Dad's old Swiss Army knife) to remove bits and then a water dipped brush to clean out the chips down to clean plastic.

My final method was to mix in as much water as the Milliput would absorb without becoming 'liquid' itself...toothpaste perhaps. Then spread it onto the surface just like butter. I learned to keep a glass of water and a wide brush handy. As the thin 'film' of Milliput dries out, I kept it moist with the brush. Flatten the whole surfae with a wet finger and allow that to dry a bit so you can see how flat the surface is or if there are any thick or thin areas. Thin areas are worse...you can add tiny lumps of Milliput and flatten them out. Then, as you go with your tool, keep the surface moist...not wet. As your surface dries, your zimmerit tool will start to lift the Milliput and will make a clicking sound as you pull it out. This is when you should moisten the surface again. Too wet and the water will obscure your view of the pattern you're making. I wonder how this method will work on other zimmerit patterns given that the pattern on this vehicle is one of the simpler ones.
Peace.

[Whiterook]

Nice explaination on the Zimm method Nick. I really admire what you've done, and your attitude to "Not feel like there's nothing you can't handle".....that is an extremely healthy way to approach everything in life. I agree that Zimmerit is a technique that makes many run in the opposite direction with all due speed. I really like your results, and I think you should be very happy with the product. Keep up the good work!

[Geek44]

Thanks Em. I must say that when I finished it at about 2.30 this morning, I had a great feeling about it. The tedious part is over and I can get into final assembly now...mostly small parts such as lifting hooks and equipment. The Voyager set comes with some beautiful brass parts to resurface the fenders and replace detail that will need to be sanded off. In most cases, the voyager bits are a real improvement over the bulkier kit parts...a product of the manufacturing method. Funny how bent metal is best depicted by using bent metal .
It looks to me like my replacement bolt heads are just too prominent but that's something I'll have to live with now. Vowing not to repeat mistakes made on previous builds in terms of painting and weathering. Stowage is minimal so I might need to address that. Basically, I've got my teeth into this and I'm finding it really enjoyable...a win with the zimmerit issue...it's all 'fun' from here on.
Peace.

[Pvt Mutt]

Yep, I just tooka another look and there ain't a thing wrong with that zimmerit.

Tony the Mutt

[Geek44]

Thanks Tony. It looks okay with some more assembly done...so I'm relatively happy with the 'look'.
Here's what I've done so far. It's still just 'pieced together' for the camera.

A portrait. The two missing hatches are still to be added, they require assembly.

Above is a closer look at the zimmerit. It's hard to know how much one can realistically 'beat up' this vehicle. From the pics I've seen, nine out of ten ar pics of disabled, destroyed or abandoned examples. Note again the drilled out pistol port. The detail set includes four plugs for these. I just need to attach some PE chain and voila.

A view of the top and left side. The brass rain guards (?) on the front plate were the hardest parts to bend.

This pic was the acid test for my zimmerit masking. I think this vehicle has great character and part of that are its lines. The top line of the zimmerit need to be parallel with the ground to preserve the forward slope of the roof. I love that the roof slopes forward...

[Geek44]

The rear plate was very labour intensive.

I'm less sure about the workings of any of this stuff than I am about more conventional armoured vehicle designs. What are those curved thingies made of brass and why is there a grille venting downwards onto them when the engines (electric?) are under the front deck?
Peace.

[lufttiger]

Very cool Nick, your Zimm is top notched, certainly i would be proud of that
work. I looked at mine with the Dragon Zimm, and the only difference i
could see between yours is the Dragon kit Zimm ias much smaller. Also the
front plate where you angled the Zimm down and put two PE parts on. I'm
not sure what those are, their not on the Dragon kit tho?